Radon-resistant measures can be installed for very little extra money or effort during home construction

It seems Radon appears in the news every few months or so.  The last “Radon Scare”  suggested that granite counter tops were a serious source of radon.  This claim was proved incorrect by the EPA.

The fact remains that Radon is believed to be the second leading cause of lung cancer in America and the leading cause of lung cancer among non-smokers.

Radon comes from the natural decay of uranium that is found in nearly all soils. It typically moves up into the home through cracks and other holes in the foundation and it can be present in any home

What to ask your builder.

Most home buyers never perform a radon test. The truth is radon-resistant measures, can be installed for very little extra money or effort.  By insuring their is home “prepped” for a radon mitigation system the home buyer can test their home a few months after occupying and if the levels are high the complete remediation system can be installed relatively inexpensively.

According to EPA, nearly one out of every 15 homes in the U.S. has elevated radon levels. EPA publishes a map at www.epa.gov/radon that shows radon potential by county, Zone 1 having the highest potential and Zone 3 the lowest. Regardless of the potential, elevated levels of radon gas have been found in homes in every state. (Zone Map is shown below).  The EPA recommends radon levels should be less than 4 pico curries per liter (pCi/L)

Reducing Radon.

Basic radon-resistant construction involves the following elements of a passive (i.e., no electrical power required) soil-gas collection and venting system (Figure 1):

A. Gas Permeable Layer – Place a drainage bed, usually a 4-inch layer of clean gravel, beneath the slab or flooring system to allow the soil gas to move freely underneath the house.

B. Plastic Sheeting – Place plastic sheeting—on top of the gas permeable layer and under the slab to help prevent the soil gas from entering the home. In crawlspaces, place the sheeting over the crawlspace floor.

C. Sealing and Caulking – Seal all openings in the concrete foundation floor to reduce soil gas entry into the home.

D. Vent Pipe – Run a 3- or 4-inch gas-tight line, usually PVC pipe (commonly used for plumbing), from the gas permeable layer through the house to the roof to safely vent radon and other soil gases.

E. Junction Box – Install an electrical junction box in case an electric venting fan is needed later.

In most cases the passive venting system reduces the radon levels to acceptable readings, but if the levels still exceed 2 pCi/L, the passive system is easily turned into an active system by adding a fan to the vent pipe in the attic.  Your builder should have already made sure a junction box, or electrical outlet, is installed near the vent pipe, so a fan can be installed quickly and easily.

What does it cost?

Cost can vary, but installation cost of  the passive system will be between $400 and $600 and to complete the active system, with a fan,  will add another $300-$500.

If you would like more information on radon,  visit www.epa.gov/radon.

The most widely used floor covering in homes today is carpet

Why? Because it is soft, relatively inexpensive, easy to change, sound absorbent and available in an almost infinite number of colors and styles.

Types of Carpet

• Textured Plush: Textured plush carpet is the most versatile. Because the textured surface of this carpet hides footprints and vacuum marks, this carpet is often the preferred style for many people. It is available in a broad range of prices and colors.
• Saxony: With a smooth, soft finish each yard of Saxony carpet has uniform twist and finish, making it the perfect carpet for master bedroom, dining room or formal living room. This is not a good carpet choice for high-traffic areas. It will show footprints and vacuum marks.
• Frieze/Cut Berber: One of the hottest styles of carpet today, this durable carpet adds a sense of both comfort and style. This type of carpet is effective at hiding footprints, and adding color flex can be very helpful at hiding soil between cleanings.
• Berber: Looped Berber carpets are durable and ideal for any room in your home with a lot of foot traffic or heavy use. This rugged carpet creates a sense of warmth and hides footprints. However, this style may make seams more apparent. It is also not ideal for stairs because the backing can show through on the stair fronts.
• Cut & Loop: This beautiful carpet is created through a combination of cut and looped yarns that create pattern effects by the variation in surface textures. Multi-color cut loops can spice up the décor of any room, as well as hide soil, stains and footprints.
• Wool: Often considered the highest-quality carpet available, wool carpet provides a sense of quality, luxury, formality and warmth. The wool pile naturally hides footprints and adds a prestigious feel to any room.

Choosing The Right Ceramic or Porcelain Tile

Ceramic and porcelain tile flooring is offered in a broad range of textures, patterns and sizes, and when combined with a spectrum of grout and glaze options, they offer significant design options for any room, in any home.

The main difference between ceramic and porcelain tile is that porcelain is fired at a much higher temperature; thus, making porcelain more resistant to moisture staining and wear than any other tile products.

Ceramic and porcelain tile is manufactured in sizes ranging from 1” to 24” square. However, you should know that tile size is relative. Tile is usually referred to by its nominal size, not it’s actual size. During the firing process, ceramic tile will shrink an average of 10%. For example some 12” by 12” floor tile will actually measure 11-7/8 inches square.

You can also choose a variety of tile shapes. Rectangular, octagonal, circular, and square shapes are just a few shapes available to consumers today.

Types of Tiles:

• Glazed Ceramic: Glazed ceramic tiles are coated with glass-forming minerals and ceramic stains. Typically, they have a matte, semi-gloss or high-gloss finish.
• Unglazed Ceramic: Unglazed ceramic tiles are very hard and dense. They come in various surface treatments and textures. These tiles are installed outside your home, as they do not offer much protection against stains compared to glazed ceramic tile.
• Porcelain: Porcelain is the hardest and densest tile available. Porcelain tile also has water absorption rate of 0.5% or less, making it applicable for both interior and exterior use.

Choosing The Right Hardwood

Hardwood floors come in a variety of species, colors, widths and finishes. However, hardwood floors come in two types: solid wood and engineered wood. The two floors look virtually identical. However, each option provides it’s own unique benefits.

The Differences Between Solid And Engineered Wood

• Solid Hardwood: Each plank is made of a single piece of wood meaning there are no veneers or reinforcements necessary. Solid hardwood floors offer greater flexibility in finishing and repairing because the floor can be repeatedly sanded, stained, and refinished.
• Engineered Hardwood: These planks are created by layering multiple sheets or plies of wood together. They are then laminated together to form a solid plank or strip. This option offers improved stability, reduced chances of cupping, more sound absorption, reduced impact from moisture and other benefits created by the strength of multiple layers.

Of course, what you are able to do depends on your budget, as a complete face lift is much more expensive than just redecorating the entry. The following tips were gathered with all kinds of budgets in mind, and all of them will give your house unquestionable curb appeal.

A To-Do List That Requires A Little Effort But Minimal Cost

• Cleaning out gutters and wiping off windows makes a big difference.
• Pressure wash walks to remove mold & mildew.
• Edge sidewalks and remove any vegetation growing between concrete and bricks.
• Recharge your lawn; fertilize, annuals and ground-cover around the trees, this defines the yard’s borders and creates a sharp focal point.
• Garage your car: Many of us turn our garages into storage rooms and park our cars in the driveway where they can clutter the view of the house. If this is the case with your household, maybe it’s time to pare down the paraphernalia to make room for the vehicles.

Painting: The Next Level Of Sprucing Up Your Home

• Fresh paint for siding, trim, and shutters – a bolder color will make a huge difference in appearance
• Semi-gloss paint in a complimentary color (trim and shutters) adds sparkle to your home
• Refinish or repaint the front door and add new or refinished hardware -
  Nothing looks worse than a weathered and stained brass kick plate
• Repaint or replace your mailbox if needed as it’s usually the first thing your guests see

Don’t Forget How Your House Looks At Night

Most of the following projects can be competed by the homeowner, and supplies are available through local home improvement centers. However, if you’re not comfortable working with electrical wiring, hire a licensed electrician to do it for you. It’s not worth the risk!

• Add solar powered or low voltage lighting along your sidewalk to guide your guests to the front door
• Add up-lighting to illuminate trees, corners of the house or important landscaping elements
• Add a decorative post lamp or replace that worn out light fixture on your front porch; when choosing a design consider existing fixtures and try to match them as closely as possible

There Are Many Things You Can Do Architecturally To Enhance The Image Of Your Home

• Add flower boxes to your windows; consider including a irrigation system to keep the flowers blooming and to conserve water
• If you are lucky enough to have a front porch, make it inviting by adding a planter for extra color or chairs or rockers if space allows
• If you don’t have a porch, consider adding one – nothing says “home” like a covered entry. Check on your local zoning to learn about any size limits or codes that may demand some customizations
• Adding additional trim such as crown molding or porch railings increases the level of exterior detail which adds to the curb appeal
• Consider adding shutters if your homes style permits, they should be equal to half the width of the window and they are offered in many styles and materials
• Create visual interest with front-yard gardens, fences, stone walls, arbors or water features
• Sometimes changing cladding materials can upgrade the look of your home. If you have an all vinyl siding home, adding some stucco stone or even some vertical Board & Batten siding can significantly upgrade your home’s appearance

More Substantial Renovations Will Be Specific To The Design And Style Of Your Home

It’s possible to add roof dormers and cupolas and to even change roof lines completely in the process of remodeling or adding on to your home. Now is the time to get started, so decide what you want to tackle first so that every step takes you closer to your goal!

If I have efflorescence do I have a problem?

Efflorescence on brickwork less than one year old can often be attributed to “new building bloom” and therefore may disappear as the salts work themselves out of the masonry material.
When efflorescence occurs more than a year after construction is complete, it can generally be attributed to excessive water penetration or poor drainage and is most often associated with severe winter temperatures.

What should I do?

Most efflorescing salts are water-soluble and many will disappear on their own accord – especially true of new building bloom. Most brick manufacturer’s recommend that you DO NOT try to clean efflorescence off the surface of the brick as it is never limited to what you see on the surface. It starts from the inside of the masonry and remains inside for years, if not indefinitely. Instead, the source of the water causing the efflorescence should be found and stopped. If the efflorescence does not go away on its own in a few months, it may never go away. But “cleaning” will not make it better – only worse.

Selecting the correct board for a specific task is essential to a good job.

The types of board that you should be come familiar with are:

5/8 Firecode – This board is recommended for drywall in the garage – on the ceiling and the common walls. 5/8 is also used on the house ceiling when the trusses are 24 on center.

XP board – A mold and mildew resistant board which is used around the top of the full piece tubs, showers and basement areas.

MR board – A moisture-resistant board which is also used around the top of the tubs and showers.

Cement Board – Hardie, Durarock, and Perma boards are used when tile is being put on the walls at shower and tub areas (tile backer).

1/2” regular – Used on exterior and interior walls and ceiling 16” on center.

54” wide board – Used to reduce seams and waste. Used on 9ft walls.

1/4” & 3/8” – Used for archways or rounded walls and laminating (over plaster or existing drywall).

Exterior drywall – Used for exterior porch ceilings outside etc.

The Best Part

Custom Building is not limited to million dollar homes. Balancing the features of your home with a price tag that still fits your budget is what custom building is truly about. As you look through all the floor plans available you’ll discover exciting options you never thought of before, and alternatives to features you thought you might not have been able to afford.

What To Look For in a Contractor

There is a long list of options in the phone book, but places like that are advertisements and sources of information THEY WANT you to know about. It isn’t very likely they will have a list of any unsatisfied customers as option 3 on the telephone prompts. The Building Industry Association of Central Ohio, also known as the B.I.A., has a list of Registered Builders that have met all the criteria you will be looking for in a quality professional. Live somewhere else in the U.S.? No problem. Go to www.nahb.org to find a reputable builder in your neck of the woods. These associations and organizations are dedicated to keeping a list of quality contractors, ensuring you find a professional who has credit worthiness, a continuing education and a history of customer satisfaction.

Once you have found a contractor you’re interested in using, look for these key points:

• Are they familiar and well versed in any potential zoning issues or specialized construction techniques that may be necessary to finish the project properly? Every location has its own codes and zoning laws. Maybe you can’t add the Florida room because there is a grandfathering law against changing the property’s original dimensions. Make sure you and your contractor know these types of details before the extra 50k is spent.
• Do they have an alternative if something in the original plan proves impossible? This is the “there is more than one way to skin a cat” aspect of the job. There are all kinds of snags that come up when building a house, and it’s the contractors job to assess them. It’s your job to make sure that you hired the right contractor, someone who is capable of creating a Plan B if something big comes up.
• Do they brush up on the latest advancements and techniques in the building field? You want someone who is dedicated to continuing education.
• Are they connected to other professionals in the industry? Is that network reputable on local, state, and national levels? What if your contractor’s back hoe is in for a replacement part, and the next three steps in the building process depend on the that backhoe finishing the task at hand? It is important to know that there are reliable sources for quick repair and replacements.
• Talk to former clients. Were they satisfied? Prepare for the future by learning about the past. If the prospective builder has nothing to hide, they should be happy to share with you a history of past references. When you contact these individuals, ask them how their building project went.

The Difference Between A Contractor and a Site Manager

Now that we have established that a good contractor will be crucial to your process of making your dream home a reality, there is one more aspect that you should be aware of when assessing who you choose for the job. Depending on the size of your project and how many other homes your contractor will work on during the life of your project, there may or may not be a site manager.

If the contractor were the godfather, then the site manager would be the gunman. It’s the contractor’s job to take your dream, figure out the to-do list, and distribute those tasks to the correct people. The site manager will be there in person making sure things are executed in a timely fashion, so their credentials are just as important as the contractor’s. In some cases the contractor covers these on-site responsibilities in person, but if a site manager is needed, make sure they are also someone you can work with. Chances are you’ll spend more time with them during the construction of your home.

How to Develop the Plans For a Custom Build

Unless your doodling in elementary school led you to become an architect, you’ll want some outside help on drawing up your floor plans. There are several ways to develop plans for your new build. Hiring a Design Professional is a good idea because you can prepare plans in advance, and then conduct a bid process between several builders, ensuring the lowest cost. There are many great sources for Pre-Designed Homes including www.eplan.com, or www.theplandrawer.com, where you can choose from a huge source of styles and prices. You could also work directly with the builder; this usually eliminates the cost to develop the plans. No matter which option you go with, it’s a good idea to pick a few ideas that resemble the style you want to achieve, and then find your outside help. Your hired professional will help you make sure the plans will adhere to the codes and zoning issues in your desired location, saving you from time and money problems before they even start.

Great, When Do We Move In?

The length of the building process depends mostly on the complexity of the building, and Mother Nature. Ideally the foundation, walls, and roof would be constructed during spring and summer, leaving the winter months to finish interior aspects. That is not always the case though, and depending on what step might be next things can be delayed by the weather. Another thing to consider is finalizing the building plans in the first place. Tinkering with details and customizations is always worth the time it takes in the beginning, so that your contractor can get it right the first time. If all goes well and a minimal number of roadblocks come up, it will take from 30 to 60 days to finalize building plans and secure the building permits. Allow another 6 to 8 months for the actual building of the home.

Touring the countryside for the home that is right for you can be difficult, and that house is not always in your price range once you find it. Custom building is the answer for someone looking for the perfect home, even if they don’t know exactly what they want yet.